FZ/T 81008-2011 in English

In case of any doubt about the English translation, the Chinese original shall be considered authoritative. This standard replaces FZ/T 81008-2004 "Jackets". Compared with FZ/T 81008-2004, this standard has the following main changes: ——Modify the application scope of the standard; ——Supplement the normative references; ——Supplement the requirements for the instructions for use of the finished product; ——Modify the requirements for shell fabric quality; ——Supplement the quality requirements for buttons and accessories; ——Modify the examination indexes of appearance defects; ——Add the stand collar pattern for appearance defects and permissible deviation of specification for main position of the finished product; ——Modify the permissible deviation of specification of collar length; ——Add the examination requirements for colour fastness to water and colour fastness to perspiration of lining; ——Add the examination indexes of colour fastness to soaping and staining of embroidery thread; ——Modify the examination indexes of colour fastness to wet friction of shell fabric; ——Modify the remarks in the table of allowable degree of colour fastness of shell fabric; ——Modify the slippage degree indexes of seams in the main positions of the finished product; ——Modify the requirements for formaldehyde content and pH value limit in the finished product; ——Add the requirements for the peculiar smell and dissolvable aromatic amine dye of the finished product; ——Cancel the rating mode for pilling sample photo; ——Replenish and perfect the judgment criteria for finished product quality defects. ——Modify the content of Appendix A of this standard. Appendix A of this standard is normative. This standard is proposed by China National Textile And Apparel Council. This standard is under the jurisdiction of the National Technical Committee on Garments of Standardization Administration of China. The National Technical Committee on Garments of Standardization Administration of China is responsible for the explanation of this standard. Drafting organizations of this standard: K-Boxing (Shanghai) Co., Ltd., Shanghai Garment Research Institute, State Supervision and Inspection Center for Garment Quality (Shanghai), Shenzhen Fibre Textile Inspection Institute, K-Boxing Co., Ltd., Fujian Swkids Industry Co., Ltd., Shanghai Li Garments Co., Ltd., Fujian Seven Brand Group Co., Ltd., Shanghai Li (Changshu) Garments Co., Ltd. Chief drafting staff of this standard: Xu Jingyun, Xu Jian, Yang Zhimin, Sun Min, Qin Wei, Jiang Hui, Guo Yali, Teng Wanhong, Zhang Guoqing, Shi Lizhen. The previous editions of the standards replaced by this standard are as: ——FZ/T 81008-1994 and FZ/T 81008-2004. PROFESSIONAL STANDARD OF THE PEOPLE'S REPUBLIC OF CHINA 中华人民共和国纺织行业标准 FZ/T 81008-2011 Jackets 茄克衫 1 Scope This standard specifies the requirements, testing methods, inspection rules as well as marking, packing, transport and storage and other technical characteristics of jackets. This standard is applicable to jackets produced with textile woven fabrics as main shell fabric. This standard is not applicable to children's wear and infant's wear. 2 Normative References The following referenced documents are indispensable for the application of this document. For dated normative references, only the dated editions are applicable to this document. For undated references, the latest editions of the normative documents (including all the amendments) are applicable to this document. GB/T 250 "Textiles-Tests for Colour Fastness-Grey Scale for Assessing Change in Colour" GB/T 251 "Textiles-Tests for Colour Fastness-Grey Scale for Assessing Change in Colour" GB/T 1335.1 "Standard Sizing Systems for Garments-Men" GB/T 1335.2 "Standard Sizing Systems for Garments-Women" GB/T 2910 (All Parts) "Textiles-Quantitative Chemical Analysis" GB/T 2912.1 "Textiles-Determination of Formaldehyde-Part 1: Free and Hydrolized Formaldehyde (Water Extraction Method)" GB/T 3920 "Textiles-Tests for Colour Fastness-Colour Fastness to Rubbing" GB/T 3921-2008 "Textiles-Tests for Colour Fastness-Colour Fastness to Washing with Soap or Soap and Soda" GB/T 3922 "Textiles-Testing Method for Colour Fastness to Perspiration" GB/T 4802.1-2008 "Textiles-Determination of Fabric Propensity to Surface Fuzzing and to Pilling-Part 1: Circular Locus Method" GB/T 4841.3 "Colour Cards of Standard Depths for Dyeing with Dyestuffs 2/1, 1/3, 1/6, 1/12, 1/25" GB 5296.4 "Instructions for Use of Products of Consumer Interest-Instructions for Use of Textiles and Apparel" GB/T 5711 "Textiles-Tests for Colour Fastness-Color Fastness to Dry Cleaning" GB/T 5713 "Textiles-Tests for Colour Fastness-Colour Fastness to Water" GB/T 7573 "Textiles-Determination of pH of Aqueous Extract" GB/T 8170 "Rules of Rounding off for Numerical Values & Expression and Judgement of Limiting Values" GB/T 8427-2008 "Textiles-Tests for Color Fastness-Color Fastness to Artificial Light: Xenon Arc Fading Lamp Test" GB/T 8630 "Textiles-Determination of Dimensional Change in Washing and Drying" GB/T 13769 "Textiles-Test Method for Assessing the Smoothness Appearance of Fabrics after Cleansing" GB/T 13771 "Textiles-Test Method for Assessing the Smoothness Appearance of Seams in Fabrics after Cleansing" GB/T 15557 "Standard Terminology Relating to Apparel" GB/T 16988 "Quantitative Determination for Mixtures of Special Animal Fibre and Wool" GB/T 17592 "Textiles-Determination of the Banned Azo Colourants" GB/T 18132 "Silk Garments" GB 18401 "National General Safety Technical Code for Textile Products" FZ/T 01026 "Textiles-Quantitative Chemical Analysis-Quaternary Fibre Mixtures" FZ/T 01048 "Determination Method for Blending Ratio of Silk and Cashmere Blended Textiles" FZ/T 01053 "Textiles-Identification of Fiber Content" FZ/T 01057 (All Parts) "Test Method for Identification of Textile Fibers" FZ/T 30003 "Method for Quantitative Analysis of Ramie (Flax Hemp) Cotton Blended Textile-Micro Projection" FZ/T 80002 "Marking Packaging Transportation and Storage for Garments" FZ/T 80004 "Rule for Garments Delivery Inspection" FZ/T 80007.1 "Test Method of Peeled off Strength Value for Garments Used Adhesive Interlining" FZ/T 80007.3 "Dry Wash Resistance Test Method for Garments Used Adhesive Interlining" 3 Requirements 3.1 Instructions for use The instructions for use of the finished product shall comply with the requirements of GB 5296.4 and GB 18401. 3.2 Size and specification 3.2.1 The size setting shall be selected according to GB/T 1335.1 and GB/T 1335.2. 3.2.2 The specifications of main positions of the finished product shall be designed by itself according to the relevant requirements of GB/T 1335.1 and GB/T 1335.2. 3.3 Raw materials 3.3.1 Shell fabric Shell fabric meeting the quality requirements of this standard shall be selected according to the relevant textile shell fabric standard. 3.3.2 Lining The lining with appropriate property and colour and lustre with shell fabric used shall be adopted (except special design). 3.3.3 Accessory fabric 3.3.3.1 Lining cloth and shoulder pad The lining cloth and shoulder pad with appropriate property and colour and lustre with shell fabric used shall be adopted, and their quality shall meet the requirements of this standard. 3.3.3.2 Suture Suture suitable for the property of shell fabric and accessory fabric used shall be adopted; the shrinkage of embroidery thread shall be appropriate to that of shell fabric; button thread shall be suitable for button in colour and lustre; brand thread shall be suitable for the brand ground colour (except ornamental thread). 3.3.3.3 Buttons and accessories Buttons (except ornamental button), zippers and metallic accessories suitable for the shell fabric used shall be adopted and free from defects. The buttons shall be smooth in surface without defect; the zippers shall be meshed well, smooth and fluent; and the metal accessories shall be free from rust, spike and staining. 3.4 Warp and weft direction 3.4.1 The allowable skewness degree of top collar, back and sleeve shall not be larger than 3%, and the front fly hem is not turned. 3.4.2 The skew of coloured woven plaid shall not be larger than 3%. 3.5 Strip and plaid matching 3.5.1 Obvious stripes and plaids of over 1.0cm on shell fabric shall comply with the requirements of Table 1. Table 1 cm Position name Requirements for stripe and plaid matching Remarks Right and left front fly Strips are smooth and straight; plaids are aligned horizontally; mutual deviation is not larger than 0.3. If the sizes of plaids are different, take the upper part of one half of coat length. Pocket and front fly Strips match and plaids match; mutual deviation is not larger than 0.3. The patch pocket of deflected material is in bilateral symmetry, and the mutual deviation is not larger than 0.5 (except shadow stripe and plaid). If the sizes of plaids are different, take the front part of the pocket. Collar point and lapel Strips are symmetrical and the mutual deviation is not larger than 0.2. If any shadow plaid, subject to obvious stripe and plaid. Sleeve Strips shall be smooth and straight and plaids shall be aligned horizontally; the sleeve top shall prevail; two sleeves shall be symmetrical; and the mutual deviation is not larger than 0.8. — Back seam Strips match and plaids match; mutual deviation is not larger than 0.3. — Side seam Plaids are aligned horizontally and the mutual deviation below 10.0 from arm hole bottom is not larger than 0.4. — Note: It is exclusive of special design. 3.5.2 The fabric (velvet), raw shadow plaid and the whole body shall be in the same direction (the raw long wool and the whole body shall be in the same direction, excluding special design). 3.5.3 Shell fabric with special pattern shall be subject to the main picture, and the whole body shall be in the same direction. 3.6 Splicing The front facing may be spliced once below the lapel and above the undermost button hole, but shall avoid button hole position. The collar band may be spliced symmetrically (not allowed for stand collar). Other positions may not be spliced, except ornamental splicing. 3.7 Colour difference 3.7.1 The colour difference of collar, lapel, front shawl and front fly shall be higher than Grade 4. The colour difference of the lining shall not be less than Grade 3-4. 3.7.2 The colour difference caused by adhesive interlining covered shall not be less than Grade 3-4. The colour difference of other surface positions shall not be less than Grade 4. 3.8 Appearance defects The allowable existence degree of appearance defect at each position of the finished product shall be in accordance with those specified in Table 2. The classification of positions of the finished product is detailed in Figure 1. Only one defect is allowable on each independent position, and the defects not listed in this standard shall, by their form, refer to the similar defects in Table 2. Table 2 cm Defect name Allowable existence degree of each position No. 1 position No. 2 position No. 3 position Yarn one times thicker than basic yarn Within 1.5 length Within 2.5 length Within 3.5 length Yarn two times thicker than basic yarn Not allowed Within 1.5 length Within 2.5 length Thick warp yarn Within 1.5 length Within 2.5 length Within 3.5 length Warp shrinkage ripple Not allowed Not wider than 0.5 Not wider than 1.0 Light oily yarn Not allowed 1.6~2.5 2.6~3.5 Spot defect (oil, rust and colour spot) Not allowed Not larger than 0.2 cm2 Not obvious Not larger than 0.3 cm2 Not obvious Note: Light oily yarn is not allowed at No. 1 position of light-colour raw material (visual inspection from 60cm). Figure 1 3.9 Sewing 3.9.1 Stitch size spacing density shall be in accordance with those specified in Table 3 (except special design). Table 3 Item Stitch size spacing density Remarks Open/blind stitch Not less than 12 stitches per 3cm Except special need Overseam stitch Not less than 9 stitches per 3cm — Handcrafted stitch Not less than 7 stitches per 3cm Shoulder seam, arm hole and collar shall not be less than 9 stitches Herringbone stitch Not less than 5 stitches per 3cm Calculate by a single side Button hole Thin thread Not less than 12 stitches per 1cm — Thick thread Not less than 9 stitches per 1cm — Sewing button Thin thread Not less than 8 threads per hole Height of leg wounding thread is appropriate to seam thickness Thick thread Not less than 6 threads per hole 3.9.2 The sewing of each position shall be flat; the line shall be smooth and straight, regular and firm; the stitch mark shall be even; the tightness of the upper and lower threads shall be appropriate; the start and stop stitch points and pocket opening shall be back stitched firmly. 3.9.3 Collar shall be flat, not upturned; open threads of the collar shall be free from stitch overlapping. 3.9.4 Set sleeve shall be round and smooth; front and back parts shall be basically consistent. Pocket and its cover shall be upright, round and smooth. 3.9.5 The seam allowance of each position shall not be less than 0.8cm (except special process requirements). 3.9.6 Button hole shall be located accurately and sized suitably; button and hole shall be in place, regular and firm. The hole position shall be free from deflection; button hole stitches shall be aesthetic, regular and flat. 3.9.7 Sewing button shall be firm; the button feet shall be suitable in height; the knots shall be free from exposure. Sewing buttons shall not be nailed on single cloth (except ornamental button); leg wounding height and button hole thickness shall be appropriate; winding shall be more than three times (except ornamental button); taking up and knotting shall be solid and intact. 3.9.8 The tightness of upper and lower snap buttons shall be suitable and firm, without shedding; button and button hole as well as upper and lower snap buttons shall be in place. 3.9.9 Attaching zipper stitches shall be smooth and straight; zipper tape shall be flat; right and left height shall be uniform. 3.9.10 Symmetrical positions shall be basically consistent. 3.9.11 The collar position shall be free from skipping stitch; the rest positions shall be free from two or above single or continuous skipping stitches within 30cm. Chain stitches shall be free from skipping stitch. 3.9.12 Brand, size mark, composition content mark and washing mark shall be accurate and clean, and upright in position. 3.10 Permissible deviation of specification The permissible deviation of specification on main positions of the finished product shall be in accordance with those specified in Table 4. Table 4 cm Position name Permissible deviation of specification Collar length ±1.0 Coat length ±1.0 Chest girth ±2.0 Total shoulder width ±0.8 Long sleeve length Set sleeve ±0.8 Long sleeve length Raglan sleeve ±1.2 Short sleeve length ±0.6 3.11 Ironing 3.11.1 The ironing at each position shall be flat and neat and free from overpress, water stain and pressing mark. 3.11.2 The position covered with adhesive interlining shall be free from degumming, strike-through and wrinkling. 3.12 Physical and chemical properties 3.12.1 Washing fastness Washing fastness covers dimensional change ratio of finished product after washing, dimensional change ratio after dry cleaning, appearance smoothness after washing and drying, seam appearance after cleansing and drying, strike-through and bubbling requirements after washing. 3.12.1.1 The dimensional change ratio of the finished product after washing shall be in accordance with those specified in Table 5. Table 5 % Position High-grade product First-grade product Qualified product Collar length ≥-1.0 ≥-1.0 ≥-1.5 Chest girth ≥-1.5 ≥-2.0 ≥-2.5 Coat length ≥-1.5 ≥-2.5 ≥-3.5 Note: For the dimensional change ratio of the finished product after washing, only the washable product indicated in the instructions for use may be examined. 3.12.1.2 The dimensional change ratio of the finished product after dry cleaning shall be in accordance with those specified in Table 6. Table 6 % Position Dimensional change ratio after dry cleaning Collar length ≥-1.5 Chest girth ≥-2.0 Coat length ≥-2.0 Note: For the dimensional change ratio of the finished product after dry cleaning, only the dry cleanable product indicated in the instructions for use may be examined. 3.12.1.3 The quality requirements for appearance smoothness after washing and drying, seam appearance after washing and drying and adhesive interlining after washing shall be in accordance with those specified in Table 7. Table 7 Grade Item Quality requirement High-grade product First-grade product and qualified product Appearance smoothness after washing and drying ((except special design) ≥3 Not examined Seam appearance quality after washing and drying (except special design) ≥4 ≥3 Adhesive interlining quality after washing Free from strike-through and bubbling Free from obvious strike-through and obvious bubbling Note: Only the washable products indicated in the instructions for use may be examined. 3.12.2 Peeled off strength of the position covered with adhesive interlining The peeled off strength of the position covered with adhesive interlining shall not be less than 6N/2.5cm×10cm (except composite and spraying shell fabric); if nonwoven adhesive interlining is incapable of being peeled off in the test, this index is not examined. 3.12.3 Colour fastness 3.12.3.1 The allowable degree of colour fastness of shell fabric shall be in accordance with those specified in Table 8. Table 8 Grade Item Allowable degree of colour fastness High-grade product First-grade product Qualified product Dry cleaning fastness Discoloration ≥4-5 ≥4 ≥3-4 Staining ≥4-5 ≥4 ≥3-4 Soaping fastness Discoloration ≥4 ≥3-4 ≥3 Staining ≥4 ≥3-4 ≥3 Dry friction fastness Staining ≥4 ≥3-4 ≥3 Wet friction fastness Staining ≥3-4 ≥3 ≥2-3 Light fastness Discoloration ≥4 ≥3-4 ≥3 Perspiration fastness Discoloration ≥3 Staining ≥3 Water fastness Discoloration ≥3 Staining ≥3 Note 1: For colour fastness to dry cleaning, only the dry cleanable products indicated in the instructions for use may be examined; for colour fastness to soaping, only the washable products indicated in the instructions for use may be examined. Note 2: The allowable degree of colour fastness of silk and silk-based blend fabric shall comply with the requirements of GB/T 18132. Note 3: The qualified product index for the colour fastness to wet friction of emerizing, roughing, flocking shell fabric and dark shell fabric is allowed to be half grade lower than that in this standard. Note 4: According to those specified in GB/T 4841.3, the colour larger than 1/2 colour card of standard depth for dyeing with dyestuffs is dark, while that less than or equal to 1/12 is light. 3.12.3.2 The colour fastness to dry friction of lining shall not be less than Grade 3-4; the staining of colour fastness to soaping shall not be less than Grade 3; the colour fastness to water shall not be less than Grade 3; the colour fastness to perspiration shall not be less than Grade 3; and the colour fastness to soaping of embroidery thread shall not be less than Grade 4. 3.12.4 Fuzzing and pilling The allowable degree of fuzzing and pilling of finished shell fabric shall be in accordance with those specified in Table 9. Table 9 Grade Grade Allowable degree of fuzzing and pilling High-grade product ≥4 First-grade product ≥3-4 Qualified product ≥3 3.12.5 Slippage and sewing performance The slippage degree of seam of main positions of the finished product shall not be larger than 0.6cm. If any textile rupture or tearing phenomenon in the slippage test result, it is judged as qualified; if any slipping phenomenon, it is judged as unqualified; if any suture rupture phenomenon, the sewing performance is judged as unqualified. 3.12.6 Formaldehyde content, pH value, peculiar smell and dissolvable aromatic amine dye Formaldehyde content, pH value, peculiar smell and dissolvable aromatic amine dye of the finished product shall comply with GB 18401. 3.12.7 Component and content of raw material The component and content of the raw material of the finished product shall meet the requirements of FZ/T 01053. 4 Testing Methods 4.1 Testing instruments 4.1.1 Steel tape and graduated scale, with a division value of 1mm. 4.1.2 Sample photo of appearance smoothness after washing and drying and sample photo of seam appearance quality after washing and drying. 4.1.3 Gray scale for assessing change in colour (GB/T 250). 4.1.4 Gray scale for assessing staining (GB/T 251). 4.1.5 Sample photos of appearance defects of men's and women's underlined and cotton garments. 4.1.6 1/12 colour card of standard depth for dyeing with dyestuffs (GB/T 4841.3). 4.2 Determination of finished product specification 4.2.1 The measurement method for the specification of main positions of the finished product shall be in accordance with those specified in Table 10, and the measurement position is detailed in Figure 2.

Scope

This standard specifies the requirements, testing methods, inspection rules, and technical characteristics such as marking, packaging, transportation and storage of jackets. This standard applies to jackets produced with textile woven fabrics as the main fabric. This standard does not apply to children's clothing and infant clothing.

Foreword I
1 Scope
2 Normative References
3 Requirements
4 Testing Methods
5 Inspection Classification Rules
6 Marking, Packing, Transport and Storage
Appendix A (Normative) Test Method for Slippage Degree of Seam