GB/T 18132-2008 in English

《GB/T 18132-2008丝绸服装》由TC219（全国服装标准化技术委员会）归口，主管部门为中国纺织工业联合会。
本标准于２０００年首次发布，本次为第一次修订。本标准代替ＧＢ／Ｔ１８１３２―２０００《丝绸服装》。本标准规定了丝绸服装的要求、检验（测试）方法、检验分类规则、标志、包装、运输及贮存等全部技术特征。本标准适用于以蚕丝机织物为主要原料生产的丝绸服装。本标准与ＧＢ／Ｔ１８１３２―２０００相比主要变化如下：
―――补充了规范性引用文件（本标准的第２章）；
―――增加了术语和定义（本标准的第３章）；
―――增加了成品使用说明的要求（本标准的４．１）；
―――修改了ＧＢ／Ｔ１８１３２―２０００中４．２、４．３、４．５、４．６的要求（本标准的４．３、４．８、４．９、４．１１）；
―――增加外观、规格要求（本标准的４．４～４．７、４．１０）；
―――修改了ＧＢ／Ｔ１８１３２―２０００ 中４．４ 的理化性能要求（本标准的４．１２．１、４．１２．４、４．１２．５、４．１２．９）；
―――删除了ＧＢ／Ｔ１８１３２―２０００中４．４．４的要求；
―――增加了部分理化性能要求（本标准的４．１２．２、４．１２．３、４．１２．６、４．１２．７、４．１２．８、４．１２．１０、４．１２．１１、４．１２．１２）；
―――修改了检验方法（本标准的第５章）；
―――修改了检验分类（本标准的６．１）；
―――修改了等级划分规则（本标准的６．２）；
―――修改了抽样规定（本标准的６．３）；
―――修改了判定规则（本标准的６．４）；
―――增加了附录Ａ、附录Ｂ。

1 Scope

This standard specifies technical characteristics such as requirements, inspection (test) methods, inspection classification rules, marking, packaging, transportation and storage for silk garments.
This standard is applicable to silk garments produced with silk woven fabrics as main raw materials.

2 Normative References

The following normative documents contain provisions which, through reference in this standard, constitute provisions of this standard. For dated references, subsequent amendments (excluding error corrections) to, or revisions of, any of these publications do not apply. However, all parties coming to an agreement according to this standard are encouraged to study whether the latest editions of these documents are applicable. For undated references, the latest edition of the normative document referred to applies.
GB 250 Gray Scale for Assessing Change in Color
GB 251 Gray Scale for Assessing Staining
GB/T 1335.1 Size Designation of Clothes - Men
GB/T 1335.2 Size Designation of Clothes - Women
GB/T 1335.3 Size Designation of Clothes - Children
GB/T 2910 Textile - Binary Fiber Mixtures - Quantitative Chemical Analysis
GB/T 2911 Textiles - Ternary Fiber Mixtures - Quantitative Analysis
GB/T 2912.1 Textiles - Determination of Formaldehyde - Part 1: Free and Hydrolyzed Formaldehyde (Water Extraction Method)
GB/T 3917.2 Textiles - Tear Properties of Fabrics - Part 2: Determination of Tear Force of Tongue Shaped Test Specimens
GB/T 3920 Textiles - Tests for Color Fastness - Color Fastness to Rubbing
GB/T 3921 Textiles - Tests for Color Fastness - Color Fastness to Washing with Soap or Soap and Soda
GB/T 3922 Textiles - Testing Method for Color Fastness to Perspiration
GB/T 3923.1 Textiles - Tensile Properties of Fabrics - Part 1: Determination of Breaking Force and Elongation at Breaking Force - Strip Method
GB/T 4841.3 Color Cards of Standard Depths for Dyeing with Dyestuffs 2/1, 1/3, 1/6, 1/12 and 1/25
GB 5296.4 Instructions for Use of Products of Consumer Interest - Instructions for Use of Textiles and Apparel
GB/T 5711 Textiles - Tests for Color Fastness - Color Fastness to Dry Cleaning
GB/T 5713 Textiles - Tests for Color Fastness - Color Fastness to Water
GB/T 7573 Textiles - Determination of pH of Aqueous Extract
GB/T 8170 Rules for Rounding off of Numerical Values
GB/T 8427-1998 Textiles - Tests for Color Fastness - Color Fastness to Artificial Light: Xenon Arc Fading Lamp Test
GB/T 8630 Textiles - Determination of Dimensional Change in Washing and Drying
GB 9994 Conventional Moisture Regains of Textiles
GB/T 14801 Test Method for Skewness and Bow in Woven and Knitted Fabrics
GB/T 15551 Mulberry Silk Fabrics
GB/T 15557 Standard Terminology Relating to Apparel
GB/T 17592 Textiles - Determination of the Banned Azo Colorants
GB 18383 General Technical Requirements for Products with Filling Materials
GB 18401 National General Safety Technical Code for Textile Products
GB/T 18886 Textiles - Tests for Fastness - Color Fastness to Saliva
GB/T 19981.2 Textiles - Textiles - Professional Care, Dry Cleaning and Wet Cleaning of Fabrics and Garments - Part2: Procedure for Testing Performance When Dry Cleaning and Finishing Using Tetrachloroethene
FZ/T 01026 Textiles - Quantitative Chemical Analysis - Quaternary Fiber Mixtures
FZ/T 01053 Textiles - Identification of Fiber Content
FZ/T 01057 (All the parts) Test Method for Identification of Textile Fibers
FZ/T 01095 Textile - Test Method of Elastane Fiber Content
FZ/T 80002 Marking Packaging Transportation and Storage for Garments
FZ/T 80004 Rule for Garments Delivery Inspection

3 Terms and Definitions

For the purpose of this standard, the following terms and definitions as well as those defined in GB/T 15557 apply.
3.1
Light-weight fabric
It refers to silk fabrics with the distinct yarn holes on the surface that yarn fabrics and false yarn (through-hole) fabrics are adopted for either the whole or partial ones; or plain silk fabrics with the unit area quality of 43g/m2 or below; or satin silk fabric with the unit area quality of 67g/m2 or below.
3.2
Burnt-out fabric
It refers to silk fabrics that various stereoscopic patterns are formed through burnt-out process by utilizing the different performances of acid-resistance and alkali-resistance of raw materials except partial raw materials on textiles.
3.3
Products for babies
It refers to the textile products used for babies whose ages are 24 months or within.

4 Requirements

4.1 Directions for use
Directions for use for finished products shall be implemented according to those specified in GB 5296.4 and GB 18401.
4.2 Size designation specification
4.2.1 Size designation setup shall be selected according to those specified in GB/T 1335.1, GB/T 1335.2 and GB/T 1335.3..
4.2.2 Specification for main parts of finished products shall be designed by oneself according to relevant requirements of GB/T 1335.1, GB/T 1335.2 and GB/T 1335.3.
4.3 Raw materials
4.3.1 Shell fabric and lining fabric
Shell fabrics that achieve quality requirements of qualified silk garments shall be selected according to relevant silk fabric standards such as GB/T 15551. The performance, color and luster between the selected shell fabric and lining fabric shall be appropriate except the special designs.

1 Scope
2 Normative References
3 Terms and Definitions
4 Requirements
5 Inspection (Test) Method
6 Inspection Classification Rules
7 Marking, Packaging, Transportation and Storage
Appendix A (Normative) Test Method for Seam Slippage Degree
Appendix B (Normative) Schematic Diagram of Sampling Position for Seam Strength Test for Trouser Back Crotch